Ammonite - Free Shawl Knitting Pattern

Ammonite

Ammonite in Knitglobal 4 ply sock yarn

Ammonite is a generously sized, semi – circular, ruffled shawl. The garment is knit from the centre top downwards / outwards, making the size easily adjustable by adding or omitting sections when knitting the body of the shawl. For a shawl measuring the same size as given in this pattern, you will require approximately 290g (just under three hanks) of 4ply Knitglobal sock yarn. The project is also suitable for yarns of different weight. Should you wish to substitute yarn and depending on the effect you are seeking to create, the needle size has to be adjusted accordingly.

A gallery of Ammonites in a variety of yarns is available here.

The body of the shawl features a simple cartridge rib stitch, giving the garment a subtle texture that blends into its semi – circular shape, whilst the top outer edge is worked in garter stitch throughout. Kfb increases are utilised to give the shawl a ruffled look. The bottom outer edge of the shawl is worked in stockinette stitch. This is followed by a playful picot border, adding further drape.

I got the idea for the name when I was in the process of completing the first test knit of the pattern. As I was binding off more and more stitches, the garment slowly started to resemble an Ammonite.

Prototype of Ammonite in generic DK weight yarn

• Size:

One size – Adjustable by adding or omitting pattern repeats, when working the body of the shawl.

• Finished Measurements:

Length of straight edge - 1.55m

Height at centre - 0.68m

(Note: Measurements were taken after the shawl was blocked.)

• Yarn:

Knitglobal 4 ply Sock Yarn - (25% nylon, 75% superwash wool) 437yds / 400m per 100g hank

Colour: Plum

Quantity required: Just under three skeins / app. 290grams

• Recommended Needle Size:

US#6 / 4mm circular needle

• Other Materials / Tools:

One darning needle and two stitchmarkers.

• Gauge:

24 stitches / 30 rows: 4'' in cartridge rib stitch

Cartridge Rib Stitch Detail

Cartridge Rib Stitch:

Row 1 : Knit        Row 7: Knit

Row 2: Purl         Row 8: Purl

Row 3: Knit         Row 9: Knit

Row 4: Knit         Row 10: Knit

Row 5: Purl         Row 11: Purl

Row 6: Knit         Row 12: Knit

Directions:

Shawl Centre

Cast - on 4 stitches, using the provisional (invisible) cast - on.

Rows 1 - 8: Knit

Row 9: Following completion of row 8, do not turn piece. Instead, turn work on right hand needle 90 degrees clockwise. With left - hand needle pick up and knit 4 stitches from the garter knots on the edge of the piece. Once these stitches have been knit, you should have a total of 8 stitches on the right hand needle. Turn piece on right hand needle once again by 90 degrees clockwise. Remove waste yarn from provisional cast – on edge and transfer all stitches to the left hand needle. Knit the 4 remaining stitches. 12 stitches are now on the right hand needle. Continue as follows:

Row 1[RS]: k4, pm, k4, pm, k4

Row 2 [WS]: k4, sm, p4, sm, k4

Row 3: k4, sm, [k1, yo] 3 times, k1, sm, k4. 15 sts

Row 4: k4, sm, p7, sm, k4

Row 5: k4, sm, k7, sm, k4

Row 6: k4, sm, p7, sm, k4

Row 7: k4, sm, kfb in each st to next marker, sm, k4. 22 sts

Row 8: k4, sm, p14, sm, k4

Row 9: k4, sm, k14, sm, k4

Row 10: k4, sm, p14, sm, k4

Shawl Body

• Note: Whilst the first and last four stitches on every row are knit throughout to produce a garter stitch edge, all stitches between the garter stitch edge are worked in cartridge rib stitch. In the following directions, “working in pattern” means to knit in cartridge rib stitch. Instructions for the cartridge rib stitch are set out above.
• All increases will take place on row 10 of every section.

1^st Section:

Row 1 [RS]: k4, sm, k to next marker, sm, k4

Row 2 [WS]: k4, sm, p to next maker, sm, k4

Row 3: k4, sm, K to next marker, sm, k4

Row 4: k4, sm, k to next marker, sm, k4

Row 5: k4, sm, p to next maker, sm, k4

Row 6: k4, sm, k to next marker, sm, k4

Row 7: k4, sm, k to next marker, sm, k4

Row 8: k4, sm, p to next maker, sm, k4

Row 9: k4, sm, k to next marker, sm, k4

Row 10: k4, sm, kfb in each st to next marker, sm, k4. 36 sts

Row 11: k4, sm, p28, sm, k4

Row 12: k4, sm, k28, sm, k4

2^nd Section:

Rows 1 – 9: Work in pattern.

Row 10: k4, sm, kfb in each st to next marker, sm, k4. 64 sts

Row 11: k4, sm, p56 to next marker, sm, k4.

Row 12: k4, sm, k56 to next marker, sm, k4.

3^rd Section:

Rows 1 – 9: Work in pattern.

Row 10: k4, sm, k2, [k1, kfb] 13 times, [kfb, k1] 13 times to final two stitches before marker, k2, sm, k4. 90 sts

Row 11: k4, sm, p82 to next marker, sm, k4.

Row 12: k4, sm, k82 to next marker, sm, k4.

4^th Section:

Rows 1 – 9: Work in pattern.

Row 10: k4, sm, k2, [k2, kfb] 13 times, [kfb, k2] to final two stitches before marker, k2, sm, k4. 116 sts

Row 11: k4, sm, p108 to next marker, sm, k4.

Row 12: k4, sm, k108 to next marker, sm, k4.

5^th Section:

Rows 1 – 9: Work in pattern.

Row 10: k4, sm, k3, [k2, kfb] 17 times, [kfb, k2] to final three stitches before marker, k3, sm, k4. 150 sts

Row 11: k4, sm, p142 to next marker, sm, k4.

Row 12: k4, sm, k 142 to next marker, sm, k4.

6^th Section:

Rows 1 – 9: Work in pattern.

Row 10: k4, sm, k3, [k3, kfb] 17 times, [kfb, k3] to final 3 stitches before marker, k3, sm, k4. 184 sts

Row 11: k4, sm, p176, sm, k4.

Row 12: k4, sm, k 176 to next marker, sm, k4.

7^th Section:

Rows 1 – 9: Work in pattern.

Row 10: k4, sm, k4, [k3, kfb] 21 times, [kfb, k3] 21 times to final 4 stitches before marker, k4, sm, k4. 226 sts

Row 11: k4, sm, p 218, sm, k4.

Row 12: k4, sm, k 218, sm, k4.

8^th Section:

Rows 1 – 9: Work in pattern.

Row 10: k4, sm, k4, [k4, kfb] 21 times, [kfb, k4] 21 times to final 4 stitches before marker, k4, sm, k4. 268 sts

Row 11: k4, sm, p 260, sm, k4.

Row 12: k4, sm, k 260, sm, k4.

9^th Section:

Rows 1 – 9: Work in pattern.

Row 10: k4, sm, k5, [k4, kfb] 25 times, [kfb, k4] 25 times to final 5 stitches before marker, k5, sm, k4. 318 sts

Row 11: k4, sm, p 310, sm, k4.

Row 12: k4, sm, k310, sm, k4.

10^th Section:

Rows 1 – 9: Work in pattern.

Row 10: k4, sm, k5, [k5, kfb] 25 times, [kfb, k5] 25 times to final 5 stitches before marker, k5, sm, k4. 368 sts.

Row 11: k4, sm, p 360, sm, k4.

Row 12: k4, sm, k 360, sm, k4.

11^th Section:

Rows 1 – 9: Work in pattern.

Row 10: k4, sm, k6, [k5, kfb] 29 times, [kfb, k5] 29 times to final 6 stitches before marker, k6, sm, k4. 426 sts

Row 11: k4, sm, p 418, sm, k4.

Row 12: k4, sm, k 418, sm, k4.

12^th Section:

Rows 1 - 9: Work in pattern.

Row 10: k4, sm, k6, [k6, kfb] 29 times, [kfb, k6] 29 times to final 6 stitches before marker, k 6, sm, k4. 484 sts

Row 11: k4, sm, p 476, sm, k4.

Row 12: k4, sm, k 476, sm, k4.

13^th Section:

Rows 1 - 9: Work in pattern.

Row 10: k4, sm, k7, [k6, kfb) 33 times, [kfb, k6] 33 times to final 7 stitches before marker, k7, sm, k4. 550 sts

Row 11: k4, sm, p 542, sm, k4.

Row 12: k4, sm, k 542, sm, k4.

14th Section:

Rows 1 - 9: Work in pattern.

Row 10: k4, sm, k7, [k7, kfb] 33 times, [kfb, k7] 33 times to final 7 stitches before marker, k7, sm, k4. 616 sts

Row 11: k4, sm, p 600, sm, k4.

Row 12: k4, sm, k 600, sm, k4.

15^th Section:

Rows 1 - 9: Work in pattern.

Row 10: k4, sm, k8, [k7, kfb] 37 times, [kfb, k7] 37 times to final 8 stitches before marker, k8, sm, k4. 690 sts

Row 11: k4, sm, p 682, sm, k4.

Row 12: k4, sm, k 682, sm, k4.

Stockinette Edging

Once Row 12 of Section 15 has been completed, continue in stockinette stitch for 13 rows as follows:

Row 1 [WS]: k4, sm, p to next marker, sm, k4.

Row 2 [RS]: k4, sm, k to next marker, sm, k4.

Rows 3 – 13: Continue in pattern (stockinette stitch) as outlined in Row 1 and 2, purling all stitches between the markers on uneven rows and knitting all stitches on even rows.

Row 13 [WS]: k4, sm, p to next marker, sm, k4.

Proceed to bind off.

Picot Bind - Off  Detail

Picot Bind – Off

*Using the cable cast – on, cast - on two stitches. Next, bind off three stitches. Return the single stitch on the right hand needle back on to the left hand needle. Repeat from *. Continue until all remaining stitches have been bound off.

Finishing:

Using a darning needle, weave in ends. Wash the finished garment and block.

List of abbreviations:

co – cast - on

k – knit

kfb – knit in front and back of stitch

p – purl

pm – place marker

sm – slip marker

st – stitch

sts - stitches

yo – yarn over

More information on designing Ammonite is available here.

Should you require pattern support, please feel free to contact me via Ravelry or leave a comment below.

This pattern is for personal use only and may not be reproduced for commercial purposes without permission.

© 2012 Clarice Asquith. All rights reserved. http://makedoandmendnovice.blogspot.com

The Provisional Cast - On - ... my way

A few months ago, one of my knitting projects required a provisional cast - on.  Sometimes this technique is also referred to as an 'invisible' or 'open-cast-on. Whilst I had understood the concept behind the technique, i.e. utilising a string of scrap yarn that upon its removal will leave the knitter with "live" stitches, which can be picked up again at a later point, I was utterly confused after watching a few instructional videos.

Thoroughly bewildered and at the same time encouraged by the wonderful Mrs Zimmermann’s mantra that there is simply no wrong or right way of knitting, I decided to go ahead and experiment. In the end, I am pleased to report  that the method I devised worked just fine and, even though a little cumbersome at first sight, it might provide others with a way out of the confusion.

Here are the step by step instructions:

Provisional cast - on: Step 1

Step 1: Tie a piece of scrap yarn, preferably in a contrasting colour, to your knitting needle as shown in the above image.

Provisional cast - on: Step 2

Step 2: Proceed to cast on as many stitches as required in whichever way you like. (I used the long tail cast on.) The stitches should wrap around the needle and the scrap yarn at the same time.

Provisional cast - on: Step 3

Step 3: Continue to knit as many rows as required. The scrap yarn is sitting comfortably at the bottom of the knitted piece, enclosed by a row of live stitches.

Provisional cast - on: Step 4

Step 4: Insert the needle into the row of live stitches using the scrap yarn as a guide. Once this step has been completed, the scrap yarn can be removed and the live stitches are ready to be knit as required.

Citron - Finally Finished

Citron in Patons UK Misty

It's taken a fair bit of time to complete this project, three months to be precise. Nevertheless, Citron, a semi - circular shawlette, is finally finished. The pattern designer is Hilary Smith Callis and written instructions can be found in the winter 2009 edition of Knitty. 

For this project I decided to attack my stash of Patons UK Misty, which I bought as a substitute for Rowan Kidsilk Haze. (More on substituting Rowan Kidsilk Haze with Patons UK Misty can be found in a previous blogpost.)

Citron in Patons UK Misty



On the whole, I am happy with the yarn, even though it split unexpectedly on two occasions, but this was easily rectified.

Another Project: The Knitted Cat Tunnel

When visiting a friend, I observed her cats diving in and out of a polyester / nylon cat tunnel. Our cats can also be found playing in enclosed spaces, especially underneath duvets and  blankets. When I saw how much her cats enjoyed playing in the tunnel, I contemplated purchasing one for ours, but on second thoughts I found  the material of the so-called cat caves, which are either made from nylon or polyester, somewhat off - putting. Given the choice, I knew that Pickle et al. would prefer hiding and resting in a cozy, knitted object. After all, they choose to fall asleep on my knitting projects. And so the idea for a knitted cat tunnel was born.

Cat Tunnel in Sirdar Big Softie

The following is not so much a knitting pattern, rather a description of my project in stages. It is suitable for the beginner knitter, as it only requires knowledge of a few knitting basics:

• You will need to be able to cast on and off.
• You should feel reasonably comfortable knitting on circular needles.
• You need to be familar with the knit stitch.

Cat Tunnel in progress.

I used the following materials:

• Bulky yarn of your choice. For my project I used approximately 10 skeins of Sirdar Big Softie. This included the yarn needed to sew in the plastic tubing at either end of the tunnel. As this project is a great exercise in stash busting, you could use yarn leftovers, provided they are of similar thickness.
  
  
  

  

  Knitted Cat Tunnel in Sirdar Big Softie

  
  
• 10mm circular knitting needles (US size 15).
  
  
• 10mm crochet hook (US size N/15) for finishing, sewing in yarn ends and incorporating the plastic tubing. (This can also be done with a large darning needle.)
  
  
• Plastic tubing approximately as thick as a standard garden hose (see picture below), available at hardware stores. The length of the tubing is dependent on the circumference at the openings of the tunnel, and I would recommend buying the tubing, once you have completed knitting the tunnel and taken actual measurements of the openings.
  
  
• Tape measure, scissors and a Stanley knife (for cutting the plastic tubing).
  
  
• Two wooden plugs or sturdy parcel tape to join the plastic tubing
  
  
• At least one playful feline, who will appreciate your crafting efforts.
  
  
  

  

  Pebble checking on progress

  
  

Instructions for a giant slouchy cat tunnel (40cm wide and 70cm long):

Begin by casting on 90 stitches using whichever method you prefer. (I used the cable cast on.) If you want a wider tunnel, cast on more stitches. If you want a smaller tunnel, reduce the amount of cast on stitches accordingly.

Place marker to mark the beginning of the round and join. 

Knit mindlessly until the tunnel has the desired length. My tunnel is approximately 70cm long and 40cm wide.

Proceed to bind off all stitches and weave in ends.

After you have finished knitting, you may wish to block the piece in order to stretch and straighten the material. I skipped this part.

Measure the circumference of the tunnel openings at either end to determine the required length of the plastic tubing. The plastic tubing I have chosen has the thickness of a domestic garden hose. 

Once you have cut the tubing to size with a Stanley knife, the ends of the tube have to be joined to form a circle. This can be achieved by glueing the ends together with sturdy parcel tape. Alternatively, you can join the ends with the help of a wooden plug, which will ensure a snug fit. (See picture below.) Before fitting the plug, briefly insert the tubes into hot water. This will cause the plastic to expand and the plug can be inserted easily. When the plastic has cooled down, the plug should fit tightly.

When the ends of the tube have been joined, proceed to sew the tube circles into the edges of the knitted tube, using the rolled up edges of the fabric as a guide.  

Having followed these steps, your cat tunnel is ready to be enjoyed destroyed (for your cats' safety obviously only under the supervision of a responsible human).

And here are a few impressions of how the tunnel was received by Pickle, Mietze and Pebble: 

Mietze enjoyed it as a seating facility until she was disturbed by Pebble.

Pebble's Parasites

In my last post I introduced Pebble, our kitten of approximately fifteen weeks. Here she is again, because a blog of any kind can never have enough pictures of cute kittens:

Pebble went to the Vet's this week for her  vaccinations, chipping and a general check - up, which includes treatment against potential parasites such as fleas, mites and worms.

The vet confirmed that everything was as it should be; and she is a healthy little kitten. So far, so good.

Roundworm

When I cleaned her litter tray the morning after the vet visit, I was greeted by the usual presents. However, over night the worm treatment got to work and she also released the above. 

I do appreciate that not everyone wants to look at poo, but, let's face it, every cat owner will have to do it to ensure that everything is in order with their furry friend.

Without confirmation from the vet, we believe this was a roundworm, which she must have picked up from her mum, as our two other cats don't go out and are routinely treated for / against parasites.

According to our research on the matter, roundworm in kittens is quite common, but also highlights the importance of getting your cat checked out and routinely treated, even if everything appears to be ok and there are no symptoms of infestation.