No Heel Turn Sock Knitting Pattern

If you are looking for a sock knitting pattern that allows you to create seamless, uninterrupted stripes when using self-striping sock yarn, you have come to the right place. 

Meet the No-Heel-Turn-Sock.

Please excuse the makeshift cardboard sock blockers in the images. (I still haven't invested in a pair of blockers...) 

Yes, you heard that right, this sock knitting pattern does not require to work a heel-flap and there is no need to pick up stitches - probably one of the most off-putting aspects for beginner knitters wishing to venture into sock knitting. 

The heel in this pattern is created simply by working increases, followed by an equal number of decreases. 

This sounds incredibly simple and it is, believe me. 

So, if you are able to knit on double-pointed needles in the round, you are confident to work k2tog and ssk decreases, and you have toyed with the idea of getting into sock knitting, this pattern will be a beginner-friendly entry into the wonderful world of top-down vanilla socks. 

No Heel Turn Sock Knitting Pattern

Sizing:

Size                      S      M        L

Ankle Circumference 18cm         19cm 20cm

Materials: 

65g of sock yarn will be sufficient for two socks with an ankle circumference of 19 cm and a foot length of 23cm (9 inches). 

The stripy yarn used for the sock in the images is James C Brett Funny Feetz 4 ply sock yarn (50% Superwash Wool, 25% Polyamide, 25% Bamboo). The contrast yarn used for the cuff and toe sections of the sock is generic / unbranded 4 ply sock yarn. The socks in the images are knitted on 2.5 mm double-pointed needles.

Tools: 

5 double-pointed knitting needles Size 2.5mm (US 1.5)

2 stitch markers

Scissors, darning needle 

Gauge: 

36 stitches over 42 rows on 2.5mm needles  for 10cm x 10cm square

Instructions:

Unless outlined in separate sections, directions are for size S, with numbers for the larger sizes in parentheses. 

Abbreviations:

k - knit                 k2tog: knit two together

kfb - knit in front and back ssk: slip, slip knit

pm - place marker         sm: slip marker

Knitting the Cuff:

Cast on 60 (68, 72) stitches. Distribute stitches as evenly as possible across the three double-pointed needles and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches. Place marker to denote the beginning of the round (Needle No 1). Proceed to knit a 2X2 (k2, p2) ribbed cuff. 

2X2 Ribbed Cuff: 

Round 1: *K2, p2; repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat the above round until the cuff measures 5.5cm / 2 inches from the cast-on edge. (app. 20 rows of ribbing)

Knitting the Leg 

Note: Whilst working the next part of the pattern, it is advisable to count the number of rows up to the toe decreases, enabling you to work the exact number of rows for the second sock.

For an ankle-length sock, the piece should measure between 14cm (5.5 inches) and 18cm (7 inches) from the cast-on edge and I recommend trying the sock on at this stage of the pattern to determine the required length in line with personal preference.

For Size S and L:

Next round: Knit all stitches. 60 (72) stitches. 20 (24 stitches) are now on each double-pointed needle. 

Repeat this round for stockinette stitch until the piece has reached the required length. 

Size M only: 

In the next round you will initially reduce the total stitch count by two stitches, enabling you to divide all stitches evenly across three needles. 

Decrease Row: K1, k2tog, k31, k2tog, k32. (The total stitch count is reduced to 66 stitches, each double-pointed needle should now hold 22 stitches.) 

Next round: Knit all stitches. (66 stitches) 

Repeat the above round for stockinette stitch, knitting all stitches, until the piece has reached the required length. 

Heel Increases:

Needle No 1 (beginning of the round) will be the needle on which the heel in- and decreases will be worked. Before starting with the increases, prepare this section by placing stitch markers during the next row (set-up row). 

Increase Set-Up Row: 

K4, pm, k12 (14, 16), pm, knit to end. 60 (66, 72) stitches).

Working the heel increases: 

Row 1 (Increase Row): K to one stitch before marker, kfb, sm, k12 (14, 16), sm, kfb, knit to end. 62 (68, 74) stitches.

Row 2: Knit all stitches. 62 (68, 74) stitches.  

Repeat the above increase row followed by a knit row ten times until the total stitch count has reached 82 (86, 92) stitches in total. 

Once all of the heel increases are worked, the heel needle (Needle 1) will be holding a total of 40 (42, 44) stitches. You may wish to add an additional double-pointed needle to hold all of the heel stitches across two double-pointed needles for added comfort whilst working this section. 

Before starting on the heel decreases, proceed to knit two rounds even, knitting all stitches and slipping all markers, ensuring to leave the two stitch markers in place.

Heel Decreases:

Working the heel decreases: 

Row 1 (Decrease Row): Knit to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k12 (14, 16), sm, ssk, knit to end. 80 (84, 90) stitches.

Row 2: Knit all stitches, slipping all markers as you knit. 80 (84, 90) stitches.  

Repeat the above decrease row followed by a knit row ten times until the total stitch count has reached 60 (66, 72) stitches, the original total stitch count before the increases. Once all of the heel decreases are worked, the heel needle (needle 1) will be holding a total of 20 (22, 24) stitches again.

When the decrease section is complete, you can remove both markers, ensuring to leave the marker that denotes the beginning of the round in place. Continue knitting in stockinette stitch until the length of the sock is 5cm (2 inches) shorter than the full length of the foot. In order to determine when the sock has reached the required length, you should try the sock on. 

Whilst working this part of the pattern, it is again advisable to count the number of rows up to the toe decreases, enabling you to work the exact number of rows for the second sock.

Redistribution of Stitches: 

Before starting the toe decreases, the stitches will now have to be redistributed and the centre of the existing heel (on Needle 1) will become the new beginning of the round. 

When redistributing the stitches, you will require an additional double-pointed needle to work the round.

Redistribution of Stitches to establish the new beginning of the round: 

At the beginning of the round knit the first 10 (11, 12) stitches on to a double-pointed needle. 

Needle 1: With a new double-pointed needle knit the next 15 (17,19) stitches on to the new needle. The needle holding these 15 (17, 19) stitches will from now on be needle 1. Place a marker against the first stitch on this needle to denote the beginning of the round. The beginning of the round has now been moved to the centre of the heel. 

Needle 2: With a new needle, knit the next 30 (32, 34) stitches. The needle holding these 30 (32, 34) stitches will be Needle 2.  

Needle 3: Knit the remaining 15 (17, 19) stitches of the round on to another new needle (Needle 3). Once this round is completed, the beginning of the next round will now be the centre of the heel.

Knit one round even before starting the toe decreases.

Shaping the Toe / Toe Decreases: 

Begin by working a toe decrease round as set out below: 

Needle 1: Knit to last three sts, k2tog, k1.
Needle 2: K1, SSK, knit to last three sts, k2tog, k1. 

Needle 3: K1, SSK, knit to end.

Next, work another 3 rounds even in stockinette stitch. 

Work a decrease round as shown above followed by 2 even rounds in stockinette stitch, twice.

Work a decrease round in stockinette stitch followed by 1 even round, three times. 

Continue to work toe decrease rounds until you have reduced the total stitch count to 6 to 8 stitches. Cut the yarn and draw the yarn through the final stitches. Weave in ends. 

This pattern is for personal use only and may not be reproduced for commercial purposes without permission. Neither may you sell any items made from the directions in this pattern.

© 2023 Clarice Asquith. All rights reserved. http://makedoandmendnovice.blogspot.com