Free Knitting Pattern: Cascade Lace Choker

I’m finally catching up with the pattern posting of my latest knitted lace choker, the Cascade Choker. Just like my earlier lace choker knitting patterns (the Nameless and the Brocade Choker), this is a quick and uncomplicated lace project, ideal for using up tiny amounts of yarn. The choker can be completed in a day or two, including the time it requires to block the finished piece. (And if you decide to knit this choker, blocking is not optional, but absolutely essential to open up the lace.) The simple lace motif is knitted over 6 rows, consisting of knit and purl stitches and a variety of standard in-and decreases. 

Cascade Lace Choker

For this project I used just 5g of Scheepjes Maxi Sugar Rush mercerised cotton yarn and 2mm double-pointed needles (dpns). Though it is possible to knit the choker on wood or bamboo needles, I recommend the use of pointy, metallic dpns, especially if you are opting for the use of mercerised cotton yarn with this pattern. This will make the knitting experience much more enjoyable. 

The length of the choker can be adjusted easily for different neck circumferences and I recommend you check the fit whilst knitting. Altogether, you should ensure that the body of the choker covers around 80% of the neck before the piece is blocked. The choker is secured with the help of two dainty i-cords, which each measure approximately 20cm in length. These will be tied to a bow. Beads can be attached to the ends of the i-cords for a more sophisticated finish. 

Cascade Lace Knit Choker

The completed piece should be wet-blocked (to open the lace detail) and left to dry over night. 

If you decide to substitute the mercerised cotton with another type of yarn, the number of lace repeats will obviously differ. As you can check the fit whilst knitting, this should not be a major issue, making this project ideally suited to using up all types of yarn leftovers.

!!Update!!

The pattern for the one-piece i-cord version of the Cascade Choker (picture below) is now available here.

Free Knitting Pattern: Brocade Lace Choker

As promised, here is my latest free pattern for a knitted lace choker - a project ideally suited for beginner lace knitters looking for a sense of accomplishment in a quick and easy lace project, which can be completed in a day or two. 

Brocade Choker - Free Knitting Pattern

The lace motif, which is knitted over eight rows, is simple, consisting mainly of a combination of standard in- and decreases across fifteen stitches. All wrong side rows are a combination of knit and purl stitches. 

Brocade Lace Choker Knitting Pattern - Lace Detail

For this project I used just 5g of Scheepjes Maxi Sugar Rush mercerised cotton yarn and 2mm double-pointed needles (dpns). Though it is possible to knit this project on wood or bamboo needles, I recommend the use of pointy, metallic dpns, especially if you are opting for the use of mercerised cotton yarn with this pattern. This will make the knitting experience much more enjoyable. 

The size of the choker can be adjusted easily for different neck circumferences and I recommend you check the fit whilst knitting. Altogether, you should ensure that the body of the choker covers around 80% of the neck before the piece is blocked. The choker is secured with the help of two dainty i-cords, which each measure approximately 20 cm in length. These will be tied to a bow. Beads can be attached to the ends of the i-cords for a more sophisticated finish. 

Brocade Lace Choker - I-Cord Detail

The completed piece should be wet-blocked (to open the lace detail) and left to dry over night.

If you decide to substitute the mercerised cotton with another type of yarn, the number of lace repeats will obviously differ. As you can check the fit whilst knitting, this should not be a major issue, making this project ideally suited to using up all types of yarn leftovers, especially sock yarn.

Brocade Choker 

Brocade Lace Choker

Free Knitting Pattern

Measurements

Before starting this project, measure your neck circumference. The lace body of your choker should cover around 80% of your neck and it will be secured with two i-cords, which should be long enough to tie a bow comfortably 

The knitting instructions for the Brocade choker below will produce a piece which measures 26.5 cm (body of the choker after blocking) and the i-cords each measure 20 cm in length. For a choker measuring 26.5 cm, you will work 16 repeats of the lace sequence for the body of the choker. One repeat measures approximately 2 cm. Adjust the number of lace repeats for a shorter or longer choker.

Brocade Choker Knitting Pattern

Materials and Tools

• 5g of Scheepjes Maxi Sugar Rush mercerised cotton yarn 

• 2 mm double-pointed needles

• 1.5 mm crochet hook / fine darning needle (for sewing-in yarn ends and attaching bead)

• contrast yarn (for provisional cast-on)

• 2 beads for securing the ends of the i-cords (optional)

• Blocking utensils

Brocade Choker Knitting Pattern 

Instructions

• Cast-on 15 stitches, using the provisional cast-on for the three centre stitches (7,8,9) as shown in the photo below. The three live stitches are located, where the i-cord will be worked later.

Provisional cast-on for i-cord

• Knit 4 rows (garter stitch)

Start of lace pattern:

• Row 1 (right side): k2, p2, k2tog, [k1, yo] twice, k1, sl1, k1 psso, p2, k2
• Row 2 (wrong side): k4, p7, k4
• Row 3: k2, p2, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k2
• Row 4: k4, p7, k4
• Row 5: k2, p2, k1, yo, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, p2, k2
• Row 6: k4, p7, k4
• Row 7: k2, p2, k2, yo, sl1, k2tog, psso, yo, k2, p2, k2
• Row 8: k4, p7, k4

• For a choker body measuring 26.5 cm repeat the above lace sequence 16 times. Adjust the number of repeats according to your own requirements.

• Knit 3 rows in garter stitch, ensuring that the cast-off is started on the wrong side.

• Bind off all stitches up to the three centre stitches, knit the centre three stitches (7, 8, 9) and cast-off the remaining stitches. 

I-cords: 

• Start knitting a 20 cm i-cord with the three remaining live stitches, bind-off i-cord  and attach bead (optional). 

• Pick-up the three centre stitches from the provisional cast-on edge, attach yarn and proceed to knit the  second i-cord. Ensure the i-cords are long enough to comfortably tie a bow.

Brocade Choker - I-Cord Detail

Finishing:

• Weave-in all yarn ends and block piece to ensure the lace is opened up.  

Should you require pattern support, please feel free to contact me via Ravelry, Twitter, Facebook, by e-mail or leave a comment below.

This pattern is for personal use only and may not be reproduced for commercial purposes without permission. Neither may you sell any items made from the directions in this pattern.

Should you wish to knit another choker (and, let's face it, one can never have enough chokers), the pattern for my Nameless Choker (pictured below) is available here and the pattern for the Cascade Choker (last image in this post) is available here.

Nameless Choker

Cascade Lace Choker

© 2020 Clarice Asquith. All rights reserved. http://makedoandmendnovice.blogspot.com

Knitted Chokers - Two New Designs

Update: The knitting pattern for the Brocade Choker is now available here.

Brocade Choker

After completing a huge circular throw I was in need of a smaller knitting project and ended up designing two new lace chokers, the Brocade and the Cascade Choker, which are currently being finished.  

Whilst waiting for the Brocade Choker to complete its time on the blocking board, here are some in-progress images of the designs. 

Design Digest: Ammonite - Part I

Ammonite and the Grey Cone...

If you are reading this post, I suppose you have seen Ammonite on Ravelry or on Flickr and you might want to know a little more about the design process and my inspiration for the pattern. Perhaps you have merely stumbled upon this blog because you are interested in knitwear design or maybe good, old Google directed you to this page because you are interested in fossils.

If you are looking for fossil - related information (and I don't mean the knitted kind), I have to disappoint you, as I am going to talk about a knitting pattern and, unless you are interested in knitting, what follows will not be a great deal of help to you.

So, Ammonite...It's probably best to start at the beginning. Roughly a year ago I was browsing in a local charity shop and found a cone of grey DK - weight yarn. There was no further information regarding the identity of the yarn, only a label inside the cone stating it was an acrylic / wool mix (30% wool, 70% acrylic). Having done a bit of research, I now believe that the yarn was manufactured by Yeoman Yarns in Yorkshire, an interesting yarn manufacturer, especially for the thrifty knitters amongst us. Yeoman's yarns come wrapped around cones, presumably targeting machine knitters. (And the big advantage of yarn on cones is of course the fact that you won't run out of yarn during your project.)

Mietze inspecting 

As this poor, grey cone was looking a little lonely, I decided to buy it at a bargain price together with two others, one in heather and another in a light creamy brown. The lovely people at the shop must have been glad to see them go and included a pair of knitting needles at the till. 

Here I was with my yarn bargains. I took them home, where they were subjected to the usual "scratch and sniff " inspection by a member of the feline quality control squad. 

Grey Cone and Friends

Ammonite - Free Shawl Knitting Pattern

Ammonite

Ammonite in Knitglobal 4 ply sock yarn

Ammonite is a generously sized, semi – circular, ruffled shawl. The garment is knit from the centre top downwards / outwards, making the size easily adjustable by adding or omitting sections when knitting the body of the shawl. For a shawl measuring the same size as given in this pattern, you will require approximately 290g (just under three hanks) of 4ply Knitglobal sock yarn. The project is also suitable for yarns of different weight. Should you wish to substitute yarn and depending on the effect you are seeking to create, the needle size has to be adjusted accordingly.

A gallery of Ammonites in a variety of yarns is available here.

The body of the shawl features a simple cartridge rib stitch, giving the garment a subtle texture that blends into its semi – circular shape, whilst the top outer edge is worked in garter stitch throughout. Kfb increases are utilised to give the shawl a ruffled look. The bottom outer edge of the shawl is worked in stockinette stitch. This is followed by a playful picot border, adding further drape.

I got the idea for the name when I was in the process of completing the first test knit of the pattern. As I was binding off more and more stitches, the garment slowly started to resemble an Ammonite.

Prototype of Ammonite in generic DK weight yarn

• Size:

One size – Adjustable by adding or omitting pattern repeats, when working the body of the shawl.

• Finished Measurements:

Length of straight edge - 1.55m

Height at centre - 0.68m

(Note: Measurements were taken after the shawl was blocked.)

• Yarn:

Knitglobal 4 ply Sock Yarn - (25% nylon, 75% superwash wool) 437yds / 400m per 100g hank

Colour: Plum

Quantity required: Just under three skeins / app. 290grams

• Recommended Needle Size:

US#6 / 4mm circular needle

• Other Materials / Tools:

One darning needle and two stitchmarkers.

• Gauge:

24 stitches / 30 rows: 4'' in cartridge rib stitch

Cartridge Rib Stitch Detail

Cartridge Rib Stitch:

Row 1 : Knit        Row 7: Knit

Row 2: Purl         Row 8: Purl

Row 3: Knit         Row 9: Knit

Row 4: Knit         Row 10: Knit

Row 5: Purl         Row 11: Purl

Row 6: Knit         Row 12: Knit

Directions:

Shawl Centre

Cast - on 4 stitches, using the provisional (invisible) cast - on.

Rows 1 - 8: Knit

Row 9: Following completion of row 8, do not turn piece. Instead, turn work on right hand needle 90 degrees clockwise. With left - hand needle pick up and knit 4 stitches from the garter knots on the edge of the piece. Once these stitches have been knit, you should have a total of 8 stitches on the right hand needle. Turn piece on right hand needle once again by 90 degrees clockwise. Remove waste yarn from provisional cast – on edge and transfer all stitches to the left hand needle. Knit the 4 remaining stitches. 12 stitches are now on the right hand needle. Continue as follows:

Row 1[RS]: k4, pm, k4, pm, k4

Row 2 [WS]: k4, sm, p4, sm, k4

Row 3: k4, sm, [k1, yo] 3 times, k1, sm, k4. 15 sts

Row 4: k4, sm, p7, sm, k4

Row 5: k4, sm, k7, sm, k4

Row 6: k4, sm, p7, sm, k4

Row 7: k4, sm, kfb in each st to next marker, sm, k4. 22 sts

Row 8: k4, sm, p14, sm, k4

Row 9: k4, sm, k14, sm, k4

Row 10: k4, sm, p14, sm, k4

Shawl Body

• Note: Whilst the first and last four stitches on every row are knit throughout to produce a garter stitch edge, all stitches between the garter stitch edge are worked in cartridge rib stitch. In the following directions, “working in pattern” means to knit in cartridge rib stitch. Instructions for the cartridge rib stitch are set out above.
• All increases will take place on row 10 of every section.

1^st Section:

Row 1 [RS]: k4, sm, k to next marker, sm, k4

Row 2 [WS]: k4, sm, p to next maker, sm, k4

Row 3: k4, sm, K to next marker, sm, k4

Row 4: k4, sm, k to next marker, sm, k4

Row 5: k4, sm, p to next maker, sm, k4

Row 6: k4, sm, k to next marker, sm, k4

Row 7: k4, sm, k to next marker, sm, k4

Row 8: k4, sm, p to next maker, sm, k4

Row 9: k4, sm, k to next marker, sm, k4

Row 10: k4, sm, kfb in each st to next marker, sm, k4. 36 sts

Row 11: k4, sm, p28, sm, k4

Row 12: k4, sm, k28, sm, k4

2^nd Section:

Rows 1 – 9: Work in pattern.

Row 10: k4, sm, kfb in each st to next marker, sm, k4. 64 sts

Row 11: k4, sm, p56 to next marker, sm, k4.

Row 12: k4, sm, k56 to next marker, sm, k4.

3^rd Section:

Rows 1 – 9: Work in pattern.

Row 10: k4, sm, k2, [k1, kfb] 13 times, [kfb, k1] 13 times to final two stitches before marker, k2, sm, k4. 90 sts

Row 11: k4, sm, p82 to next marker, sm, k4.

Row 12: k4, sm, k82 to next marker, sm, k4.

4^th Section:

Rows 1 – 9: Work in pattern.

Row 10: k4, sm, k2, [k2, kfb] 13 times, [kfb, k2] to final two stitches before marker, k2, sm, k4. 116 sts

Row 11: k4, sm, p108 to next marker, sm, k4.

Row 12: k4, sm, k108 to next marker, sm, k4.

5^th Section:

Rows 1 – 9: Work in pattern.

Row 10: k4, sm, k3, [k2, kfb] 17 times, [kfb, k2] to final three stitches before marker, k3, sm, k4. 150 sts

Row 11: k4, sm, p142 to next marker, sm, k4.

Row 12: k4, sm, k 142 to next marker, sm, k4.

6^th Section:

Rows 1 – 9: Work in pattern.

Row 10: k4, sm, k3, [k3, kfb] 17 times, [kfb, k3] to final 3 stitches before marker, k3, sm, k4. 184 sts

Row 11: k4, sm, p176, sm, k4.

Row 12: k4, sm, k 176 to next marker, sm, k4.

7^th Section:

Rows 1 – 9: Work in pattern.

Row 10: k4, sm, k4, [k3, kfb] 21 times, [kfb, k3] 21 times to final 4 stitches before marker, k4, sm, k4. 226 sts

Row 11: k4, sm, p 218, sm, k4.

Row 12: k4, sm, k 218, sm, k4.

8^th Section:

Rows 1 – 9: Work in pattern.

Row 10: k4, sm, k4, [k4, kfb] 21 times, [kfb, k4] 21 times to final 4 stitches before marker, k4, sm, k4. 268 sts

Row 11: k4, sm, p 260, sm, k4.

Row 12: k4, sm, k 260, sm, k4.

9^th Section:

Rows 1 – 9: Work in pattern.

Row 10: k4, sm, k5, [k4, kfb] 25 times, [kfb, k4] 25 times to final 5 stitches before marker, k5, sm, k4. 318 sts

Row 11: k4, sm, p 310, sm, k4.

Row 12: k4, sm, k310, sm, k4.

10^th Section:

Rows 1 – 9: Work in pattern.

Row 10: k4, sm, k5, [k5, kfb] 25 times, [kfb, k5] 25 times to final 5 stitches before marker, k5, sm, k4. 368 sts.

Row 11: k4, sm, p 360, sm, k4.

Row 12: k4, sm, k 360, sm, k4.

11^th Section:

Rows 1 – 9: Work in pattern.

Row 10: k4, sm, k6, [k5, kfb] 29 times, [kfb, k5] 29 times to final 6 stitches before marker, k6, sm, k4. 426 sts

Row 11: k4, sm, p 418, sm, k4.

Row 12: k4, sm, k 418, sm, k4.

12^th Section:

Rows 1 - 9: Work in pattern.

Row 10: k4, sm, k6, [k6, kfb] 29 times, [kfb, k6] 29 times to final 6 stitches before marker, k 6, sm, k4. 484 sts

Row 11: k4, sm, p 476, sm, k4.

Row 12: k4, sm, k 476, sm, k4.

13^th Section:

Rows 1 - 9: Work in pattern.

Row 10: k4, sm, k7, [k6, kfb) 33 times, [kfb, k6] 33 times to final 7 stitches before marker, k7, sm, k4. 550 sts

Row 11: k4, sm, p 542, sm, k4.

Row 12: k4, sm, k 542, sm, k4.

14th Section:

Rows 1 - 9: Work in pattern.

Row 10: k4, sm, k7, [k7, kfb] 33 times, [kfb, k7] 33 times to final 7 stitches before marker, k7, sm, k4. 616 sts

Row 11: k4, sm, p 600, sm, k4.

Row 12: k4, sm, k 600, sm, k4.

15^th Section:

Rows 1 - 9: Work in pattern.

Row 10: k4, sm, k8, [k7, kfb] 37 times, [kfb, k7] 37 times to final 8 stitches before marker, k8, sm, k4. 690 sts

Row 11: k4, sm, p 682, sm, k4.

Row 12: k4, sm, k 682, sm, k4.

Stockinette Edging

Once Row 12 of Section 15 has been completed, continue in stockinette stitch for 13 rows as follows:

Row 1 [WS]: k4, sm, p to next marker, sm, k4.

Row 2 [RS]: k4, sm, k to next marker, sm, k4.

Rows 3 – 13: Continue in pattern (stockinette stitch) as outlined in Row 1 and 2, purling all stitches between the markers on uneven rows and knitting all stitches on even rows.

Row 13 [WS]: k4, sm, p to next marker, sm, k4.

Proceed to bind off.

Picot Bind - Off  Detail

Picot Bind – Off

*Using the cable cast – on, cast - on two stitches. Next, bind off three stitches. Return the single stitch on the right hand needle back on to the left hand needle. Repeat from *. Continue until all remaining stitches have been bound off.

Finishing:

Using a darning needle, weave in ends. Wash the finished garment and block.

List of abbreviations:

co – cast - on

k – knit

kfb – knit in front and back of stitch

p – purl

pm – place marker

sm – slip marker

st – stitch

sts - stitches

yo – yarn over

More information on designing Ammonite is available here.

Should you require pattern support, please feel free to contact me via Ravelry or leave a comment below.

This pattern is for personal use only and may not be reproduced for commercial purposes without permission.

© 2012 Clarice Asquith. All rights reserved. http://makedoandmendnovice.blogspot.com