Big Jim Action Figures - Free Pants Knitting Pattern

Boxer Shorts for Big Jim Action Figures

Having crafted a lot for my collection of Monster High fashion dolls lately (more here), I decided it was time to branch out and design some pants / boxer shorts for Winnetou, a Big Jim Action figure and by far the oldest doll in my collection.

Big Jim Action Figure (Winnetou / Geronimo) by Mattel ca 1970s / 1980s

With boys being the obvious target market, Big Jim action figures were produced by Mattel during the 1970s up to the mid-1980s, when production of the line eventually seized. As you can see from the picture above, the dolls don't have a proper head, yet come with a variety of other features, including a bulging biceps and the legendary push button in their backs, enabling the characters to execute what is supposed to resemble 'a karate chop move'. For a demonstration, watch the video below.

Though I don't have any concrete proof, I assume that my figure is named Winnetou, the Native American chief, originally marketed as part of the German 'Karl May' movie edition of the toys. These were distributed in other countries as part of the regular Big Jim / Kid Acero line with a  generic wild west theme and Winnetou being renamed Geronimo. 

Unlike most of the other Big Jim figures, Winnetou was one of the few characters, who sported a head full of hair, which, given the age of the toy, is still in perfect condition.

At any rate, having recently designed a basic leggings pattern for the Monster Highs, I adapted the pattern for Big Jim action figures and knitted Winnetou (and friends) a few pairs of boxer shorts. Winnetou seems pleased and my boxer short pattern can be found below.

Big Jim Action figure (by Mattel) in hand knitted boxer shorts (by me)

Big Jim Action figure (by Mattel) in hand knitted boxer shorts (by me) 

Free Big Jim Action Figure Boxer Shorts Knitting Pattern

Knitted seamlessly from the waist down, this pattern gives you the chance to check whilst knitting to ensure a snug fit; and the length of the boxer shorts  can obviously be adjusted as you go. 

Big Jim Action figure Winnetou (by Mattel) wearing handknitted boxer shorts

Big Jim Action figure Winnetou (by Mattel) wearing handknitted boxer shorts

Knitted on 2.5mm to 3mm needles, the pattern is suitable for all types of sock yarn. For  the  boxer shorts in the images, I used Madelinetosh Tosh Merino Light (Victorian Gothic - for the dark purple pants) and Araucania Botany Lace for the pink and multi-coloured versions.

Materials and Tools

• app 5 - 10g of: 4 ply Sock Yarn 

• 2 - 3mm Double-Pointed Needles 

• 4 Stitch Markers

• Scissors

• Safety Pin x2 or Scrap Yarn (in contrasting colour)

• Darning Needle, Sewing Needle or Crochet Hook (for sewing in ends)

Big Jim Action figure Winnetou (by Mattel) wearing handknitted boxer shorts

Instructions

Cast on 30 stitches.

Row 1: k1, p1 to end of row.

Row 2 - 5: Divide stitches evenly on 3 double-pointed needles and join in the round, placing a stitch marker at the beginning of the round. Continue in k1, p1 ribbing for another 4 rounds.

Waist Increases: 

Row 6: SM (slip marker), k1, PM (place marker), kfb, k11, kfb, pm, k1, pm, kfb, k to last stitch, kfb (34 stitches)

Row 7 - 11: Repeat above increase row five times in stockinette stitch, knitting in the front and back of each stitch directly before and after each marker until the stitch count totals 54 stitches.

Dividing for the legs

Removing markers, at the beginning of the next round place the first 27 stitches onto waste yarn. 

Join the remainder of the stitches in the round, placing a marker at the beginning of the new round.

Row 12: sm, kfb, knit to last stitch, kfb (29 stitches)

Continue knitting in stockinette stitch for 11 rounds and bind-off or continue knitting until piece has reached the desired length.

Proceed to knit the second leg, dividing stitches held on scrap yarn evenly on three double-pointed needles. Using the m1 increase method, pick up 1 stitch at the beginning and at the end of the round to ensure a closed up seam. Mark the beginning of the round and start knitting the second leg, following the instructions above. 

Weave in all ends, block and enjoy!

For my other doll knitting patterns, please visit this link.

Big Jim Action figure Winnetou (by Mattel) wearing handknitted boxer shorts

Big Jim Action figure Winnetou (by Mattel) wearing handknitted boxer shorts

Big Jim Action figure Winnetou (by Mattel) and his haul of hand-knitted boxer shorts

Should you require pattern support, please feel free to contact me via Ravelry, Twitter, by e-mail or leave a comment below.

This pattern is for personal use only and may not be reproduced for commercial purposes without permission. Neither may you sell any items made from the directions in this pattern.

© 2019 Clarice Asquith. All rights reserved. http://makedoandmendnovice.blogspot.com

Free Pattern: Knitted Leggings for Monster High Dolls

Free Monster High Leggings Pattern 

The Monsters were in need of some new clothes, and I decided it was time to make a few knitted leggings / pants.

This pattern is for  Monster High dolls, measuring approximately 26cm in height. Knitted seamlessly from the waist down, it gives you the chance to check whilst knitting to ensure a snug fit; and the length of the leggings can obviously be adjusted as you go. 

Monster High Doll Free Knit Leggings Pattern

Knitted on 2.5mm to 3mm needles, the pattern is suitable for all types of sock yarn. For the leggings below, I used Madelinetosh Tosh Merino Light (Victorian Gothic) and Araucania Botany Lace. 

Monster High Doll Free Knit Leggings Pattern

As you can see in the images, two of the Monsters are wearing a light green, fluffy jumper and OOAK wigs made from brushed acrylic yarn. The pattern for the jumper is available here, and instructions on how I make my doll yarn wigs can be found here and here. All of my other Monster High projects are available via this link.

Monster High Doll Free Knit Leggings Pattern

Without further ado, here is my knitting pattern for the knitted leggings: 

Monster High Doll Leggings

Pattern Notes

Materials and Tools

• app 5 - 10g of: 4 ply Sock Yarn 

• 2 - 3mm Double-Pointed Needles 

• 4 Stitch Markers

• Scissors

• Safety Pin x2 or Scrap Yarn (in contrasting colour)

• Darning Needle, Sewing Needle or Crochet Hook (for sewing in ends)

Knitted Leggings for Monster High Dolls - Preview of New Pattern

Monster High Knitted Leggings

New Free Monster High Knitting Pattern Preview

I have been busy knitting leggings for the Monster Highs dolls. The leggings are knitted seamlessly from the top down and the size can be adapted whilst knitting, ensuring a snug fit. I'm hoping to release the free pattern on the blog in the next few days. 

Until then, here is a little preview.

Finished Monster High Yarn Wig Projects

I have been busy creating yarn wigs from brushed acrylic yarn for Monster High Dolls and my instructions on how to make these are available here and here. 

As already mentioned in my previous posts, brushing out acrylic yarn creates a lot of waste. To minimise this waste, I wanted to experiment and make a wig, incorporating wefts made out of the waste acrylic.

When I recently completed another wig, I essentially followed the same steps, but utilised some of the brushed out waste acrylic yarn in the lower layers of the wig. Looking at the finished wig (photos below), I am quite pleased with the result. Whilst these 'waste wefts' are certainly not suitable for the top layers of the wig, they make for nice padding and add overall bulk to the appearance of the wig. 

Here are some images of my waste yarn wig: 

Monster High Wig (made from acrylic yarn, incorporating wefts made from waste acrylic yarn) 

Monster High Wig (made from acrylic yarn, incorporating wefts made from waste acrylic yarn) 

Monster High Wig (made from acrylic yarn, incorporating wefts made from waste acrylic yarn) 

Monster High Wig (made from acrylic yarn, incorporating wefts made from waste acrylic yarn) 

The Weekly Swatch: Diamond Rib Knit Stitch

Against a background of reverse stockinette stitch, the Diamond Rib stitch creates vertical columns featuring framed, diamond-shaped motifs. The stitch requires multiples of nine plus two stitches and is worked over eight rows. Due to the intricate details of the stitch motif, it's probably best suited to lace-weight and sock yarns. 

Diamond Rib Knit Stitch (Yarn: Araucania Botany Lace, Needle Size 3mm)

The Weekly Swatch: Pucker Cable Knit Stitch

This week I have prepared swatches showcasing the Pucker Cable Stitch. Despite its name, to knit the pattern you will not require a cable needle. The delicate texture is achieved through simple in- and decreases, the remainder of the stitches are either knitted or purled. 

This uncomplicated stitch works well with all types of yarns, even fuzzier, fingering-weight Mohair blends, as can be seen in the pictures below. 

Pucker Cable Stitch

The Weekly Swatch: Diamond Trellis and Garter Triangle Stitch

The Diamond Trellis and Garter Triangle Stitch

For this week's stitch, I have been knitting up two swatches, one for the Diamond Trellis stitch and for one of its (many!) variations, featuring a garter stitch effect in the upper part of the diamond motif.  

Both require a multiple of ten plus three stitches and repeats are worked over sixteen rows.  

As can be seen from the images below, this lace stitch is best suited to yarns with a good stitch definition. For my samples I have chosen Rowan Bamboo Soft and Stylecraft Kon-Tiki, both on 4mm needles. 

The Diamond Trellis and Garter Triangle Stitch

The Weekly Swatch: Waterfall Lace Knit Stitch Pattern

The Waterfall Lace Knit Stitch

For this week's stitch, I have been knitting up two swatches in the so-called Waterfall lace pattern.

This stitch motif requires a multiple of six plus three stitches and repeats are worked over six rows. 

An uncomplicated stitch, which you will be able to remember after a few pattern repeats, this pattern creates vertical columns and the positioning of the yo-increases results in the effect of cascading water. This stitch is ideal for throws, blankets and scarfs. 

As can be seen from the images below, this lace stitch is suitable for yarns of all types of  weight. For my samples I have chosen Rowan Kid Classic and Wendy Zena, an Alpaca  / Acrylic blend.

Waterfall Lace Knit Stitch Pattern

The Weekly Swatch: Gate and Ladder Knit Stitch Pattern

The Gate and Ladder Knit Stitch

For this week's lace knit stitch, I have chosen the Gate and Ladder Stitch. 

This stitch motif is achieved over two rows (excluding the set-up row) and results in a fabric, which combines solid knit columns and openwork ladders, where the yarn over increases are worked. 

As can be seen from the images below, this lace stitch is ideal for yarns of a heavier weight. 

For my samples I have chosen Rowan Bamboo Soft and Stylecraft Merino, both on 4cm knitting needles.

Gate and Ladder Knit Stitch

OOAK Custom Doll Wigs - Tips on how to make acrylic yarn wigs for Monster High and other dolls

Doll wigs made from brushed acrylic yarn

Yes, it is possible, very straightforward and fun to make doll wigs from brushed acrylic yarn. 

Not only is this an effective stashbuster project, if you wish to use up left-overs and odd bits of acrylic yarn, but - as I explained in a previous post on doll customisation - I believe, this is an excellent project for those wishing to get started with doll customisation.

OOAK Custom Monster High Doll Wig in Progress (made with brushed acrylic yarn) 

Since last posting on custom doll wigs, I have completed another Monster High doll wig and what follows below are a few hints and tips for those wishing to make their own doll wigs with brushed acrylic yarn. 

Without further ado, let's start talking OOAK (one of a kind) custom doll yarn wigs.

OOAK Custom Monster High Doll Wig in Progress (made with brushed acrylic yarn) 

Monster High OOAK Custom Acrylic Yarn Wig 

Acrylic Yarn Wig - How to

• Removing the doll's factory hair

Removing the hair from and cleaning the doll's head is by far one of the most time-consuming steps in the process. I managed to 'be-head' and 'de-hair' my Monster High with the help of warm water and a pair of tweezers, which I used to remove the glue from the inside of her scalp. 

This process involves a lot of scraping against the inside of the doll's scalp and should be done with a great deal of patience. Other doll models may behave differently, and I would advise not to apply too much force, giving this process time. Once I had all the hair successfully pulled from the scalp of my Monster High, I proceeded to make a simple wig cap.

Monster High Doll Wig Cap

• Making a wig cap

I have seen a number of ways, in which customisers make wig caps, utilising both silicon or hot glue guns. Yet, I decided to opt for the simplest route, requiring an old pair of tights, a rubber band and several (at least three) applications of PVA glue.

Before making the cap, ensure the doll's head is wrapped in a thin layer of cling film. Proceed to cover the head with the tights, pull them neatly over the doll's head and secure the fabric with a rubber band underneath the ears. The rubber band will serve as a guide when applying the glue to the head.

Monster High OOAK Custom Doll Wig Cap 

I chose the most easily available, run of the mill PVA glue, which is stocked in my local Tesco's. Though there are superior brands available online, it did the job just about fine, even though its consistency is clearly more on the lumpy side. 

Next time, I will opt for another brand with a smoother liquid. Especially when it comes to preparing the yarn wefts, you will want to make use of a glue that is as smooth as possible when brushed onto the wefts. This one was just a bit too lumpy for my liking.

PVA Glue by County Stationery

I applied four coats of PVA glue to make the cap, letting the glue dry completely between applications. This resulted in a sturdy, yet flexible cap, fitting the doll's head like a glove. Waiting for four glue applications to dry may sound somewhat lengthy, but it's vital to ensure that the glue is dried completely before proceeding to cut the wig to size. When the wig is ready, you will need to cut away the excess fabric, using the rubber band as a guide. The rubber band itself will usually peel off or can be carefully removed by hand. You will also need to cut out the area where the doll's ears are located. I used the outline of the ears in the dried glue as a guide, but you may wish to trace the outline with a marker pen when the cap is still on the doll's head.

Monster High OOAK Custom Doll Wig Cap

Monster High OOAK Custom Doll Wig Cap

• Making acrylic yarn wefts and reducing waste

A good-looking wig starts with well-made yarn wefts. To ensure the wefts are uniform in size, the yarn should be cut into equal strands, each between 19cm and 25cm long. Bulky acrylic works best. 

Before brushing out the yarn, I separated the individuals strands of the yarn. This makes the process of brushing a lot easier and, I feel, reduces waste. I secured an equal number of strands on a knitting needle and proceeded to brush these with a carder.

Acrylic Yarn cut for Yarn Wefts

When I made my first yarn wig I was overwhelmed by the amount of waste when brushing out the yarn. And at first I was reluctant to really apply the force necessary to brush out the yarn properly: Firstly, I was afraid that I would destroy all of the yarn and, secondly, I was horrified at the waste I was producing in the process. (The below photo shows the waste acrylic from just one weft.) 

Waste Acrylic Yarn when brushing out acrylic yarn

Unfortunately, the wastage cannot be helped. There will be a lot of waste. (More on that and how to utilise the waste acrylic for the wig below.) Yet, once you start brushing the yarn, you will not destroy the individual strands of yarn completely. At some point in the process, you will end up with a yarn weft that resembles the picture below.

Acrylic yarn weft, brushed before straightening 

• Minimising waste when making acrylic yarn wefts

In order to minimise waste, I tried to make a weft out of the waste acrylic by simply brushing the yarn with the carder for a second time. I'm pleased to report that this method works and it is possible to make small wefts out of the waste acrylic. The 'waste wefts' are shown in the following two images both before and after heat treatment. 

These smaller, 'waste wefts' will look inferior when compared to the others, but can still be utilised in the  less visible bottom layers of the wig, providing added bulk.

Yarn wefts made from waste acrylic yarn (before straightening) 

Yarn wefts made from waste acrylic fluff after straightening (used for lower layers of wig)  

For an overall smooth appearance, the wefts should be heat treated with a hair straightener. Individual results will vary, depending on how much heat is applied and for how long, but I would recommend starting off with the lowest setting and regulating up.

Yarn Weft after straightening

• Glueing the yarn wefts

When applying PVA glue to the wefts, I ensure that a small amount of glue equal to the length of the weft is applied to a plastic sheet (multi-punched pocket or other plastic surface). I place the weft into this area, pressing it firmly into the glue. I then proceed to deposit a very small amount of glue over the top ends of the wefts and carefully work the glue into the acrylic with a brush. 

In this step it's important to use just the right amount of glue. Too little and the weft will not be held together. Too much glue will result in the top of the weft being too stiff and too bulky, making it harder to fit it onto the wig cap. I let the glue dry overnight, ensuring that the wefts can be easily removed from the plastic.

• Assembling the wig

The scariest part in the whole process is assembling the wig itself. The challenge here is to place the wefts in such a way that the glued ends are not visible. How you assemble the wefts on the cap largely depends on the look you want to achieve, but I would recommend starting off with the front of the head working your way round the entire wig once, placing smaller wefts (cut to size) around the ear area and then proceeding to work your way up from the back. 

Arranging the yarn wefts on the wig cap

When the wig is completed and all wefts have been glued, I keep styling to a minimum and ensure that the wig is left untouched for at least 12 hours, giving the glue a chance to dry. As PVA glue is water soluble, all contact with water should be avoided.

OOAK Monster High Custom Wig

Monster High OOAK Custom Doll Wig 

Monster High Doll Custom Acrylic Yarn Wig 

Monster High Doll Custom Acrylic Yarn Wig