Showing posts with label knitting. Show all posts
Showing posts with label knitting. Show all posts

Sunday 7 January 2024

The Weekly Swatch: Three-Colour Balloon Knit Stitch

 

Three Colour Balloon Knit Stitch free knitting pattern

After the Two-Colour Balloon Knit Stitch in my last post, this post showcases the Three-Colour Balloon Knit Stitch. 

It's essentially the same knit stitch with the addition of a third colour on rows 11 to 16. The stitch motif requires a multiple of 8 plus 4 stitches and is worked over a total of 16 rows. All stitches are slipped as if to purl.

The Weekly Swatch: Two-Colour Balloon Knit Stitch


Two Colour Balloon Knit Stitch knitting pattern

Having more fun with simple colourwork, next up we have the Two-Colour Balloon Knit Stitch. This stitch requires a multiple of 8 plus 4 stitches and is worked over a total of 16 rows. All stitches are slipped as if to purl.


Two Colour Balloon Knit Stitch knitting pattern

Saturday 4 March 2023

The Weekly Swatch: Two-Colour Loop Knit Stitch

 


two colour loop knit stitch pattern tutorial


Injecting a splash of colour with this week's knit swatch...

The Two-Colour Loop Stitch is super simple and rewarding. The loop effect is achieved by mostly knitting, some purling and slipping lots of stitches. 

It's worked over eight rows and requires a multiple of four plus one stitches. 

Two-Colour Loops Knit Stitch Pattern Tutorial
Two Colour Loop Knot Stitch

Saturday 25 February 2023

The Weekly Swatch: Trellis Knit Stitch

 

Trellis Knit Stitch Pattern










 
Time for a traditional lace knit stitch. This week I have prepared the Trellis Knit Stitch. 

The Trellis Stitch is worked over a multiple of seven plus two stitches over eight rows. Overall, it's a beginner-friendly lace knit stitch, but will call for purling two stitches together through the back loop (p2togtbl) on rows 2 and 6 of the stitch pattern. 

Tuesday 7 February 2023

The Weekly Swatch: Cell Knit Stitch

cell knit stitch pattern four row repeat mock cable knit stitch pattern

 

After a long period of silence caused by a sudden influx of kittens (images to be posted shortly), I'm finally back to updating the blog with fresh content. 

I'm starting off today with a new addition to the stitch library, the Cell Knit Stitch. 

This simple, textured stitch is created through a combination of knit and purl stitches. The stitch itself is worked over four rows and the mock cable effect is achieved by casting on additional stitches on the right side rows. Simple p2tog decreases are worked on the wrong side rows. 

Tuesday 6 April 2021

How to block a knitted I-Cord or ...a new way to block an I-Cord


I am currently working on a new choker pattern, which will be up on the blog very soon. The new choker design (no name yet, and I am having a hard time finding one...) is a quick and simple lace project, which incorporates a cable stitch motif with some simple lace.

Sunday 21 February 2021

Free Mohair Scarf Knitting Pattern: The Winter's End Scarf

This weekend I completed the final rows of my Winter's End scarf and proceeded to block the scarf right after it came off the needles. The Winter's End scarf is knitted with fine 3 ply lightweight mohair yarn. As the pattern is straightforward and simple, this was my in-between, go-to project for the past four months. 

Free Mohair Scarf Knitting Pattern


Simple Mohair Knitting Pattern with a Technical Twist

The stitch pattern for the scarf is a simple 1x1 rib and to keep things interesting and achieve a unique look, this mohair scarf pattern incorporates a technical twist. In order to achieve the long chain of stitches and airy texture of the scarf, the project is knitted on needles of two different sizes, radically different sizes to be precise: 2mm and 8mm. 


Free Mohair Scarf Knitting Pattern
Free Mohair Scarf Knitting Pattern 

For this reason, and even though the project is perfectly suitable for beginner knitters, the challenge lies not so much in the stitch pattern, but in its execution; i.e. staying in charge of the fuzzy yarn, whilst working the pattern on odd needles and showing them who is boss.


Free Mohair Scarf Knitting Pattern
Free Mohair Scarf Knitting Pattern 


I enjoy working with superfine mohair and really appreciate the unique qualities of this type of yarn, but I am well aware that the fuzziness of the material can be a source of frustration. From my experience with mohair knits, the golden rule for working with this type of yarn is to cast on loosely and to ensure you do not knit tightly. (More information on this, is available here.) This advice holds true for all mohair knits, but is even more important when knitting with mohair on odd needles.  

For the Winter's End Scarf I used Yeoman's 3 ply Elsa ( 30% mohair 40% acrylic 30% nylon), which is a budget option when it comes to Mohair yarn. The pattern is equally suitable for similar yarns or more upmarket choices with a higher mohair component (such as Drops Kid Silk) or, if you are preferring the luxury option, those with an added silk component, i.e. Rowan Kid Silk Haze or Debbie Bliss Angel. 


Free Mohair Scarf Knitting Pattern
Free Mohair Scarf Knitting Pattern 


Gauge is not important for this project and my scarf is designed to be 35 cm wide and 135 cm long, thus producing a generous, versatile piece that can be worn in a variety of ways, either wrapped around the neck several times to keep chills away, as an accessory draped loosely around the shoulders to show off the knitting or as a protective layer for the head, shielding you from the elements, whilst simultaneously covering your entire head without destroying the hairstyle underneath. 

For a narrower scarf, simply cast on fewer stitches, ensuring you cast-on an odd number of stitches. The length of the scarf can be adapted by measuring the scarf as you knit.


Free Mohair Scarf Knitting Pattern
Free Mohair Scarf Knitting Pattern 


Sunday 31 January 2021

The Simple Ruffled Edge - Without M1L / M1R Increases

The Simple Knitted Ruffled Edge (worked at the end of the knitting)  

When I was knitting my Virga Shawl, I wanted to incorporate a ruffled edge detail, but didn't feel like working m1l / m1r increases, considering the overall stitch count at this stage of the project (over 500 stitches). And so the search began for a simpler way of working the ruffled edging without m1l / m1r increases. 

Knitted Ruffled Edging
Knitted Ruffled Edging  - Virga Shawl Detail    



The Simple Ruffled Edge - With M1L / M1R Increases

The most common, simple ruffled edging is achieved by working m1l (make one left) and m1r (make one right) increases into the knitting. In the instructions below for a ruffled edge worked at the end of the knitting on a multiple of 6 plus 5 stitches, the m1l / m1r increases are placed just before and after the knit stitches on the right side rows. This results in an increase of purl stitches on the following row (wrong side row), whilst the amount of knit stitches on the wrong side rows remains constant throughout. In turn, as the stockinette part of the fabric grows, this creates the ruffle on the right side of the knitting.

The stitch pattern for a ruffled edging with M1L / M1R increases is as follows: 

Row 1 (RS): P5, *k1, p5, rep from * end.

Row 2 (WS): K5, *p1, k5, rep from * end.

Row 3 (RS): P5, *M1R, k1, M1L, p5, rep from * end.

Row 4 (WS): K5, *p3, k5, rep from * end.

Row 5 (RS): P5, *M1R, k3, M1L, p5, rep from * end.

Row 6 (WS): K5, *p5, k5, rep from * end.

The m1l and m1r increases between the sections of purl and knit stitches are continued as shown above until the ruffled edging has reached the desired length. 

Whilst the above technique produces a neat looking ruffled edge, it is time consuming as a result of the m1l / m1r increases. 


The Simple Ruffled Edge - Without M1L / M1R Increases

Ruffled Edging Knitting

The Simple Ruffled Edge - Without M1L / M1R Increases



In my efforts to avoid m1l / M1r, I decided to try knitting the ruffled edge with kfb (knit one into front and back) increases initially. Yet, when I knitted my edge sample with kfb increases, I didn't feel that the symmetry of the edging looked quite right, as the kfb increases created large holes in the fabric. All in all, I felt that the kfb increases didn't look neat. To fix this and improve the appearance of the ruffled edge without working m1l and m1r increases, I proceeded to work the increases slightly differently and tried something new. 

Instead of knitting in the front and back of the stitch that was to be increased, I decided to work p/ktbl and k/ptbl increases before and after the knit stitches on the right side row. (I am not sure whether the abbreviations k/ptbl and p/ktbl are correct, but as I was unable to find them referenced anywhere, I am for now just going along with these abbreviations to describe this type of increase.)

The p/ktbl and k/ptbl increases are achieved by purling (as normal) and then knitting through the back loop of the same stitch (p/ktbl) and by knitting (as normal) and then purling through the back loop of the next increase stitch (k/ptbl), thus maintaining the symmetry of knit and purl stitches. 

Increasing in this way tightens the holes, that would appear if a simple kfb increase was used, and is also much faster than working the m1l / m1r increases, which are traditionally called for. By working the increases into the purl stitch immediately preceding and following the knit stitches I maintained the increases on the right side rows just before and after the knit stitches. 

The P/ KTBL  K/PTBL Ruffled Edge

The stitch pattern for a ruffled edging with a multiple of 6 plus 5 stitches worked with P/ KTBL and K/PTBL increases looks like this: 

Row 1 (RS): P5, *k1, p5, rep from * end.

Row 2 (WS): K5, *p1, k5, rep from * end.

Row 3: P4, *(p/ktbl) into same stitch, k1, (k/ptbl) into same stitch, p3, rep from * to last stitch, p1.

Row 4: K5, *p3, k5, rep from * end.

Row 5: P4, *(p/ktbl) into same stitch, k3, (k/ptbl) into same stitch, p3, rep from * to last stitch, p1.

Row 6: K5, *p5, k5, rep from * end.

Row 7: P4, *(p/ktbl) into same stitch, k5, (k/ptbl) into same stitch, p3, rep from * to last stitch, p1.

Row 8: K5, *p7, k5, rep from * end.

Row 9: P4, *(p/ktbl) into same stitch, k7, (k/ptbl) into same stitch, p3, rep from * to last stitch, p1.

Row 10: K5, *p9, k5, rep from * end.

Row 11: P4, *(p/ktbl) into same stitch, k9, (k/ptbl) into same stitch, p3, rep from * to last stitch, p1.

Row 12: K5, *p11, k5, rep from * end.

Continue to increase as above until the edging has reached the desired length and proceed to bind off in pattern.


ruffled edge knitting no m1r / m1l increase
Simple Knitted Ruffled Edge 


For more knit stitch patternsplease follow this link to my knit stitch library.

Sunday 4 October 2020

Virga Choker (beaded version) - Free Lace Choker Knitting Pattern

 - These are the pattern instructions for the beaded version of the Virga Choker, the pattern for the Virga Choker without beads is available here. - 

Free Lace Choker Knitting Pattern
Virga Lace Choker Free Knitting Pattern (beaded version) 

As an in-between project I finished another choker. I was inspired to design this choker when looking at in-progress project photos of my Virga shawl, an upcoming pattern for a semi-circular lace shawl, which will be published on the blog shortly. When I took the photos of the shawl, the dressmaker's dummy still had my Cascade choker wrapped around the neck and I got the idea to make a choker in the same lace motif as the Virga shawl. 

The result of this endeavour is my Virga Choker.

Sunday 13 September 2020

Introducing the Virga Shawl



New Knitting Pattern: The Virga Lace Shawl


Despite having completed work on a number of new patterns in recent weeks and months, I have not updated the blog with them. 

This is about to change and I decided to make a start today by posting a few images of my new shawl pattern, the Virga shawl.

Whilst the first test knit of the pattern is now complete, the shawl still requires blocking as well as a minimal amount of finishing; and I need to get to grips with my pattern notes before combining them into a usable pattern.

Monday 31 August 2020

Vintage 1980s Knitting Patterns - Part 9

Time for instalment number nine of my vintage 80s knitting patterns. 

This post features numerous Alafoss and Wendy knitting patterns, plenty of batwing and dolman sweaters, pastel shades and headband accessories, with some entrelac and colourwork thrown in for good measure.

Enjoy.

All my other vintage patterns can be viewed via this link.


Vintage 1980s Alafoss Lopi Traditional Sweater Knitting Pattern  - Booklet No 2
Vintage 1980s Alafoss Lopi Traditional Sweater Knitting Pattern - Booklet No 2


Vintage 1980s Alafoss Lopi Traditional Sweater Knitting Pattern  - Booklet No 2
Vintage 1980s Alafoss Lopi Traditional Sweater Knitting Pattern - Booklet No 2

Saturday 4 July 2020

Vintage 1980s Knitting Patterns - Part 7

Time for another instalment of 1980s knitting pattern handsomeness.

All my other vintage patterns are available via this link.

Enjoy.

Vintage 1980s Knitting Pattern - Patons 8065 Ladies' Raglan Sweater Pattern
Vintage 1980s Knitting Pattern - Patons Pattern 8065 Ladies' Raglan Sweater 

Vintage 1980s Knitting Pattern - Patons Pattern 1994 Ladies' Sweater Pattern
Vintage 1980s Knitting Pattern - Patons Pattern 1994 Ladies' Sweater Pattern

Saturday 27 June 2020

Free Knitting Pattern: Cascade Lace Choker

I’m finally catching up with the pattern posting of my latest knitted lace choker, the Cascade Choker. Just like my earlier lace choker knitting patterns (the Nameless and the Brocade Choker), this is a quick and uncomplicated lace project, ideal for using up tiny amounts of yarn. The choker can be completed in a day or two, including the time it requires to block the finished piece. (And if you decide to knit this choker, blocking is not optional, but absolutely essential to open up the lace.) The simple lace motif is knitted over 6 rows, consisting of knit and purl stitches and a variety of standard in-and decreases. 


Cascade Lace Knit Choker Free Pattern
Cascade Lace Choker


For this project I used just 5g of Scheepjes Maxi Sugar Rush mercerised cotton yarn and 2mm double-pointed needles (dpns). Though it is possible to knit the choker on wood or bamboo needles, I recommend the use of pointy, metallic dpns, especially if you are opting for the use of mercerised cotton yarn with this pattern. This will make the knitting experience much more enjoyable. 

The length of the choker can be adjusted easily for different neck circumferences and I recommend you check the fit whilst knitting. Altogether, you should ensure that the body of the choker covers around 80% of the neck before the piece is blocked. The choker is secured with the help of two dainty i-cords, which each measure approximately 20cm in length. These will be tied to a bow. Beads can be attached to the ends of the i-cords for a more sophisticated finish. 

Cascade Lace Knit Choker Free Pattern
Cascade Lace Knit Choker

The completed piece should be wet-blocked (to open the lace detail) and left to dry over night. 

If you decide to substitute the mercerised cotton with another type of yarn, the number of lace repeats will obviously differ. As you can check the fit whilst knitting, this should not be a major issue, making this project ideally suited to using up all types of yarn leftovers.

!!Update!!

The pattern for the one-piece i-cord version of the Cascade Choker (picture below) is now available here.



Saturday 2 May 2020

Vintage 1980s Knitting Patterns - Part 6

I posted my last instalment of vintage 1980s knitting patterns way back at the end of  2018 and felt it was high time to sift through the vintage pattern haul once more, in order to add another instalment to the series of vintage pattern posts.

As most of the patterns are not dated, it's mainly guesswork to determine whether these are really going back to the 1980s. Some might be early 90s and others may be late 70s. If you think I've got it wrong, as always, feel free to leave a comment below. 

All my other vintage patterns are available via this link.

With that said, it's time to kick back, relax and enjoy a trip back in knitting history to colour blocks and batwing sweaters.  



Vintage 1980s Knitting Patterns - Sirdar Pattern c6798 (Odpins) Ladies' V-Neck and U Neck  Top
Vintage 1980s Knitting Patterns - Sirdar Pattern c6798 (Odpins) Ladies' V-Neck and U Neck  Top 
Vintage 1980s Knitting Patterns - King Cole Pattern 561 - Ladies Batwing Sweater
Vintage 1980s Knitting Patterns - King Cole Pattern 561 - Ladies Batwing Sweater 

Saturday 25 April 2020

Free Knitting Pattern: Brocade Lace Choker

As promised, here is my latest free pattern for a knitted lace choker - a project ideally suited for beginner lace knitters looking for a sense of accomplishment in a quick and easy lace project, which can be completed in a day or two. 


Free Lace Choker Knitting Pattern
Brocade Choker - Free Knitting Pattern
The lace motif, which is knitted over eight rows, is simple, consisting mainly of a combination of standard in- and decreases across fifteen stitches. All wrong side rows are a combination of knit and purl stitches. 

Brocade Lace Choker Knitting Pattern - Lace Detail
Brocade Lace Choker Knitting Pattern - Lace Detail

For this project I used just 5g of Scheepjes Maxi Sugar Rush mercerised cotton yarn and 2mm double-pointed needles (dpns). Though it is possible to knit this project on wood or bamboo needles, I recommend the use of pointy, metallic dpns, especially if you are opting for the use of mercerised cotton yarn with this pattern. This will make the knitting experience much more enjoyable. 

The size of the choker can be adjusted easily for different neck circumferences and I recommend you check the fit whilst knitting. Altogether, you should ensure that the body of the choker covers around 80% of the neck before the piece is blocked. The choker is secured with the help of two dainty i-cords, which each measure approximately 20 cm in length. These will be tied to a bow. Beads can be attached to the ends of the i-cords for a more sophisticated finish. 


Free Lace Choker Knitting Pattern
Brocade Lace Choker - I-Cord Detail

The completed piece should be wet-blocked (to open the lace detail) and left to dry over night.

If you decide to substitute the mercerised cotton with another type of yarn, the number of lace repeats will obviously differ. As you can check the fit whilst knitting, this should not be a major issue, making this project ideally suited to using up all types of yarn leftovers, especially sock yarn.



Free Choker Knitting Pattern
Brocade Choker 

Brocade Lace Choker

Free Knitting Pattern




Measurements


Before starting this project, measure your neck circumference. The lace body of your choker should cover around 80% of your neck and it will be secured with two i-cords, which should be long enough to tie a bow comfortably 



The knitting instructions for the Brocade choker below will produce a piece which measures 26.5 cm (body of the choker after blocking) and the i-cords each measure 20 cm in length. For a choker measuring 26.5 cm, you will work 16 repeats of the lace sequence for the body of the choker. One repeat measures approximately 2 cm. Adjust the number of lace repeats for a shorter or longer choker.


Free Choker Knitting Pattern
Brocade Choker Knitting Pattern

Materials and Tools


  • 5g of Scheepjes Maxi Sugar Rush mercerised cotton yarn 
  • 2 mm double-pointed needles
  • 1.5 mm crochet hook / fine darning needle (for sewing-in yarn ends and attaching bead)
  • contrast yarn (for provisional cast-on)
  • 2 beads for securing the ends of the i-cords (optional)
  • Blocking utensils



Free Choker Knitting Pattern
Brocade Choker Knitting Pattern 


Instructions

  • Cast-on 15 stitches, using the provisional cast-on for the three centre stitches (7,8,9) as shown in the photo below. The three live stitches are located, where the i-cord will be worked later.
Provisional Cast-On Choker
Provisional cast-on for i-cord
  • Knit 4 rows (garter stitch)
Start of lace pattern:
  • Row 1 (right side): k2, p2, k2tog, [k1, yo] twice, k1, sl1, k1 psso, p2, k2
  • Row 2 (wrong side): k4, p7, k4
  • Row 3: k2, p2, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k2
  • Row 4: k4, p7, k4
  • Row 5: k2, p2, k1, yo, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, p2, k2
  • Row 6: k4, p7, k4
  • Row 7: k2, p2, k2, yo, sl1, k2tog, psso, yo, k2, p2, k2
  • Row 8: k4, p7, k4
  • For a choker body measuring 26.5 cm repeat the above lace sequence 16 times. Adjust the number of repeats according to your own requirements.
  • Knit 3 rows in garter stitch, ensuring that the cast-off is started on the wrong side.
  • Bind off all stitches up to the three centre stitches, knit the centre three stitches (7, 8, 9) and cast-off the remaining stitches. 

I-cords: 
  • Start knitting a 20 cm i-cord with the three remaining live stitches, bind-off i-cord  and attach bead (optional). 
  • Pick-up the three centre stitches from the provisional cast-on edge, attach yarn and proceed to knit the  second i-cord. Ensure the i-cords are long enough to comfortably tie a bow.

Icord  Detail  - Knitted Lace Choker - Free Knitting Pattern
Brocade Choker - I-Cord Detail


Finishing:
  • Weave-in all yarn ends and block piece to ensure the lace is opened up.  



Should you require pattern support, please feel free to contact me via Ravelry, Twitter, Facebook, by e-mail or leave a comment below.

This pattern is for personal use only and may not be reproduced for commercial purposes without permission. Neither may you sell any items made from the directions in this pattern.

Should you wish to knit another choker (and, let's face it, one can never have enough chokers), the pattern for my Nameless Choker (pictured below) is available here and the pattern for the Cascade Choker (last image in this post) is available here.

Nameless Choker
Lace Choker Knitting
Cascade Lace Choker






© 2020 Clarice Asquith. All rights reserved. http://makedoandmendnovice.blogspot.com





Wednesday 22 April 2020

Knitted Chokers - Two New Designs

Update: The knitting pattern for the Brocade Choker is now available here.



After completing a huge circular throw I was in need of a smaller knitting project and ended up designing two new lace chokers, the Brocade and the Cascade Choker, which are currently being finished.  

Whilst waiting for the Brocade Choker to complete its time on the blocking board, here are some in-progress images of the designs. 

Tuesday 7 January 2020

Free Knitting Pattern - Monster High Doll Tights


Monster High Doll Tights Knitting Pattern


Having recently released a Monster High doll leggings pattern, I wanted to develop this project further and adapt the leggings pattern into Monster High doll tights. The result of my experiment is this pattern.

The tights are knitted seamlessly from the top-down and finished off at the toes with kitchener stitch.

For the tights in the images I used Madelinetosh Tosh Merino Light sock yarn in Victorian Gothic, but the pattern should work with any 4 ply sock yarn. 

To achieve snug-fitting tights, I recommend checking the fit on the doll frequently to see whether it's necessary to insert additional knit rows between the calf-decreases.  


Free Monster High Tights Pattern
Monster High Tights Knitting Pattern


Monster High Doll Tights

Pattern Notes


Materials and Tools

  • app 10 - 15g of 4 ply Sock Yarn 
  • 2 - 3mm Double-Pointed Needles 
  • 4 Stitch Markers
  • Scissors
  • Safety Pin (x 2) or Scrap Yarn (in contrasting colour)
  • Darning Needle (for kitchener stitch), Crochet Hook (for sewing in ends and tidying up)

Monster High Doll Tights  Pattern
Monster High Tights Knitting Pattern



Cast on 24 stitches.

Row 1: k1, p1 to end of row.

Row 2 - 4: Divide stitches evenly on 3 double-pointed needles and join in the round, placing a stitch marker at the beginning of the round. Continue in k1, p1 ribbing for another 3 rounds.

Waist Increases: 

Row 5: SM (slip marker), k1, PM (place marker), kfb, k8, kfb, pm, k1, pm, kfb, k10 to last stitch, kfb (28 stitches)

Row 6 - 8: Repeat above increase row three times until stitch count totals 40 stitches.

Continue knitting 5 - 8 rounds in stockinette stitch until the piece has reached the desired length and fits comfortably around the dolls hips. 

Dividing for the legs

Removing markers, at the beginning of the next round place the first 20 stitches onto waste yarn. 

Join the remainder of the stitches in the round, placing a marker at the beginning of the round.

Row 11: sm (slip marker), kfb, knit to last stitch, kfb (22 stitches)

Row 12: k all stitches

Thigh Decreases

Row 13: sl1, k1, psso, k to last 2 stitches, k2tog (20 stitches)

Row 14: k all stitches

Row 15: sl1, k1, psso, k to last 2 stitches, k2tog (18 stitches)

Row 16: k all stitches

Row 17: sl1, k1, psso, k to last 2 stitches, k2tog (16 stitches)

Row 18: k all stitches

Row 19: sl1, k1, psso, k to last 2 stitches, k2tog (14 stitches)

Row 20 - Row 57: continue knitting in stockinette stitch for 38 rows (knitting throughout) until the piece has reached the dolls calf.


Monster High Tights Pattern
Monster High Tights Knitting Pattern


Calf Decreases 


During this section, it's advisable to keep checking the fit on the doll. If you notice that you require more rows for added length, insert these between the decrease rows after checking the fit.

Row 58: k to last 4 sts before end of round, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog (12 stitches)

Row 59 - Row 63: k 4 rows in stockinette stitch 

Row 64: k to last 4 sts before end of round, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog (10 stitches)

Row 65 - Row 68: knit 4 rows in stockinette stitch 

Row 69: k to last 4 sts before end of round, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog (8 stitches)

Row 70 - Row 73: knit 4 rows in stockinette stitch 

Row 74: k to last 4 sts before end of round, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog (6 stitches)

Row 75 to bind off: continue knitting in stockinette stitch until the knitted fabric almost entirely engulfs the doll's foot as shown in the picture below.

When the doll's foot is comfortably covered by the knitted fabric, switch to two double-pointed knitting needles and align them parallel to one another, preparing to bind the last remaining stitches off in kitchener stitch.   


Ready for kitchener stitch bind off 

More in-progress photos of the tights are available here. You may find them helpful to show the bind-off.

When the bind off is complete, insert the needle at the corner of the toes and pull the yarn through to the inside to achieve a bump-free finish. 

The Second Leg 

Proceed to knit the second leg, dividing stitches held on scrap yarn evenly on three double-pointed needles. Using the m1 increase method, pick up 1 stitch at the beginning and at the end of the round to ensure a closed up seam. 

Mark the beginning of the round and start knitting the second leg, following the instructions above. Ensure that the thigh decreases are positioned at the inside of the leg and the calf decreases are positioned at the back of the doll's leg.

When the tights are complete, block the finished object by leaving it fitted on the doll. This will ensure that the fabric is nicely stretched into shape.  

Free Monster High Tights  Pattern
Monster High Tights Knitting Pattern


Free Monster High Doll Tights Pattern
Monster High Tights Knitting Pattern

Should you require pattern support, please feel free to contact me via Ravelry, Twitter, by e-mail or leave a comment below.

This pattern is for personal use only and may not be reproduced for commercial purposes without permission. Neither may you sell any items made from the directions in this pattern.





© 2020 Clarice Asquith. All rights reserved. http://makedoandmendnovice.blogspot.com